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Grado SR325e headphones with Nyczaj metal gimbals and rod blocks - installation manual

Aluminum gimbals and rod blocks set for Grado headphones - step-by step installation manual


2022 comes with important

upgrades to our popular

aluminum sets.

We decided to change the coating

process to conventional anodizing.

Parts are now much better protected against scratches

and dents.

We also added threadlocker glue

to each aluminum set.

It locks the gimbal pins and headband screw in place to prevent them from


These changes will allow for higher durability and better comfort of use.

What's in the package?
Nyczaj aluminum gimbals and rod blocks set with spare screws, allen key, and threadlocker glue


What's in the package?

2 gimbals

2 rodblocks

2 pressure screws

2 gimbal pins

1 pointy screw

4 silicone sliders

1 allen key (1)

1 syringe with glue (2)

(1) - for installation and adjustments.

(2) - Loctite 243 threadlocker glue.

What are these spare screws and silicone sliders for?
Close-up of spare screws and allen key included in Nyczaj's aluminum gimbals and rod blocks set


What are these spare screws and silicone sliders for?

Spare screws

in case you lose any thile tinkering with your Grado's.

Silicone sliders

semi-transparent pills - one of the most important parts of aluminum sets, also a secret to why our rodblocks move so smoothly on the rods.

* we include four spares, because there are two inside each rodblock, behind the pressure screws.

They will wear over time, but  very, very slowly (you won't need to replace them for at least 6-8 years).

First you need to disasseble your headphones a bit.
Stock Grado SR60 headphones with semi-disassembled headband before mod installation


First you need to disasseble your headphones a bit.

a) Remove your earpads.

b) Remove the rubber caps on the rods of stock gimbals.

c) Slide the stock rodblock off.

Removing stock plastic gimbals from Grado SR60 headphones

d) Remove stock gimbals.

Grab them close to the pins that go inside the cups.

Bend outwards slightly, since they are plastic, they should come out of the holes and come off easily.

Separating stock rod blocks from Grado headphones headband

e) Separate the rodblocks from the heaband. *

Grab the headband next to the rodblock firmly with one hand and the rodblock itself with the other hand.

Move it left and right, back and fort, until it loosens up a bit, keep doing it while pulling the headband and rodblock in separate directions until the headband comes out completly.

* This is propably the hardest part in the entire process as it requires quite a lot of force and persistence.

How to disassemble metal gimbals?
Removing stock metal gimbals from high-end Grado headphones


How to disassemble metal gimbals?

To do this you'll need small pliers and a bit of rubber or a heatshrink.*

a) Put the rubber/heatshrink around the head of the gimbal pin.

b) Grab it firmly withpliers and unscrew.

*Pictures in these section are at courtesy of ChijiroKuro from Head-Fi forums, thanks!

Now you can start installing a new aluminum set!
Preparing Nyczaj aluminum rod block for Grado headphonesfor installation by removing screw


Now you can start installing a new aluminum set!

a)  Unscrew the screw that goes through the slit in front of the rodblock.

Applying threadlocker glue to screw for securing Nyczaj rod block for Grado's

b) Mount that pointy screw on the allen key and apply a bit of throadlocker on it.


If you push the syringe too hard, you can eject all glue from it at once, so go slow, especially that you only need a tiny bit on the screw.

Aligning stock Grado headband inside Nyczaj aluminum rod block before securing

c) Insert the metal headband into the slit.

Make sure that the holes in the rodblock and in the headband are aligned.

Securing stock Gradoes headband to Nyczaj metal rod block with screw

d) Screw the screw back in to lock the headband in the rodblock.

Place the rodblock on the table. Slide the metal bit of headband inside t.

Press the headband and the rodblock against the table with one hand and screw with the other.

Stock Grado headband connected to Nyczaj aluminum rod block

e)  Wipe dry the excess glue from the thread wit a paper towel, as it maight leave a stain.

Assembly is ready to be installed on your headphones.
Unscrewing gimbal pins from Nyczaj aluminum gimbal for mounting


Assembly is ready to be installed on your headphones.

a) Make sure you know which headphone cup is left and whichone is right to mount them on the headband correctly.

b) Unscrew the gimbal pins a bit.

Enough to see most of their threat on the outside of the gimbal.

Applying threadlocker glue to gimbal pins before fixing to headphone cups

c) Apply a bit of threadlocker on the gimbal pin and align it with the holes in the cup.

Fixing Nyczaj metal gimbals to Grado SR60 headphone cups

d) Screw the gimbal pin in, until it's flush with the gimbal.

Wipe the excess glue dry, like you did with the rodblock.

Repeat this step for each of 4 gimbal pins and that's it.

Your Grado Labs headphones are now successfully upgraded with our aluminum set. Enjoy!

IMPORTANT - if you ordered rodblocks only, you'll also need to insert silicone sliders inside the pressure screw holes on your own.

Rodblock Installation Instruction
Nyczaj metal rod block for Grado's


Rodblock Installation Instruction

IMPORTANT - if you ordered rodblocks only, you'll also need to insert silicone sliders inside the pressure screw holes on your own.

When ordering a rodblock/gimbal set, we alredy do it for you.

Remember to do it before you put the pressure screws, otherwise you'll scratch your gimbal rod.

Principles of operation and possible adjustments.

There's no rocket science involved in how these rodblocks and gimbals work.

Grado's ideas is propably one of the simplest in the industry. And while being so, it does pretty good job, allowing the cups to move in all directions.

Unfortunetly it has some flaws, like free 360 degree rotation of the cups that causes the cables to twis and headphone users to rage.

Also stock plastic rodlocks to wear out rather quickly and loosen up causing the cups to slide od your ear.

And that's where we come in. It was very important for us that our aluminum sets not only are more durable than stoks ones, but also improve on the comfort of use.

That's why we intoduced silicone sliders and pressure wscrews in them.

This way the rod will only move horizontally when you want it to and you'll say goodbye to twisting cables and earpads that fall of each time you take your headphones off.

Unfortunately this is not ideal when you want to share your headphones withs someone who's head is different size than yours, as the vertical adjustment will likely require the allen key we include in the package.

Combined they allow to thighten the rodblock around the rod while maintaining the smooth movement of the latter.

Depending on how thightly they are adjusted, rod can move completly freely like in stock parts or can be even locked completly in the position without risking any damage to the rod.

For the most comfortable use of headphones I suggest adjusting the headphones vertically on your head to its size, and then tightening the pressure screws to the point where rod won't move vertically, but will be able to twis horizontally.

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